John Lobb shoemakers is a highly respected manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a core of the shoe industry in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the 1800s.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife touching the cutting table. With feather knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only about sixty percent is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines timeless classics with subtle refinements. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb remains a defining name in English shoemaking.
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