The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a core of the shoe industry in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the Victorian era.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is limited, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only 60% of each hide is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The range combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the mid-20th century, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a defining name in English shoemaking.
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